The same car is routinely 10–20% cheaper from a private seller than from a dealer. That gap isn't generosity — it's the price of the legal protections, warranty and convenience you're giving up. Whether that trade is worth it depends on the car, the price bracket, and how much checking you're willing to do yourself.

What a Dealer Legally Owes You

Buy from a trader and the Consumer Rights Act 2015 applies. The car must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose, and as described — judged against its age, mileage and price. Concretely:

• First 30 days: a fault that breaches those standards gives you the right to reject the car for a full refund
• 30 days to 6 months: a fault is presumed to have existed at sale (the dealer must prove otherwise); they get one shot at repair or replacement before you can demand a refund (possibly with a use deduction)
• Distance sales (bought entirely online/by phone): you also get a 14-day cooling-off right to change your mind

These rights apply on top of any warranty. A dealer saying "sold as seen, trade sale" to a consumer is trying to disclaim rights that can't be disclaimed — treat it as the red flag it is.

What a Private Seller Owes You

Much less. A private sale must be as described and the seller must have the right to sell — that's about it. "Satisfactory quality" doesn't apply; if the gearbox grenades a week later and the ad was honest, it's your gearbox now.

This is why the private-sale discount exists, and why your own checks carry all the weight:

• Save the advert and all messages — "as described" claims live or die on evidence
• Verify the seller: meet at the address on the V5C, check the name matches, be wary of "selling for a friend" — that pattern features in most of the common scams
• Do the full data sweep: reg check, MOT history analysis, and a paid finance/write-off check before money moves

The Honest Comparison

• Price: private wins, clearly. On a £10,000 car the gap is often £1,000–£2,000
• Legal protection: dealer wins, clearly (see above)
• Warranty: dealers typically include 3–6 months (check what it actually covers — some are threadbare); private sales include nothing
• Part-exchange & finance: dealer-only conveniences. Just negotiate the px and the car price separately
• Choice & speed: dealers have prepared stock ready to drive away; private buying means more legwork but occasionally the one-owner gem no forecourt ever sees
• The seller's knowledge: underrated private-sale advantage — you can question the person who actually drove it for five years. Ask about that recurring MOT advisory and watch how they answer

Which Should You Choose?

Lean dealer when: the car is newer and expensive (protections scale with the money at risk), you need finance or a part-exchange, or you don't want to project-manage the buying process.

Lean private when: you're confident running the checks yourself, the price gap is meaningful, and the specific car has evidence going for it — long ownership, full history, clean MOT story. In the sub-£5,000 bracket, dealer margins make good stock scarce anyway; private is where the value lives, as we noted in the first car buying guide.

Either way, the pre-purchase homework is identical — the difference is what happens when something goes wrong afterwards. Do the checks as if you have no protections, and treat any that exist as a bonus.