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Car Buying Tips

How to Compare Used Cars Side by Side (and Pick the Right One)

2 November 2026
7 min read
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Most car searches end with a shortlist of two to four cars that all look fine. That's where people fall back on gut feel — colour, a nicer interior, a friendlier seller — and pay for it later. A fair comparison asks the same questions of every car and puts the answers next to each other.

The Seven Questions, for Every Car

  1. What is it worth? Compare each asking price with similar cars of the same age and mileage, not with each other
  2. How has it been driven? Divide the mileage by the age. Around 7,000–10,000 miles a year is typical; very low mileage isn't automatically better if it came from years of short trips
  3. What does the MOT history say? Count the fails, note any "dangerous" items, and look for the same advisory repeated test after test — that's a repair that keeps being put off
  4. What is it known for? Some engines and gearboxes have well-documented weak points. Check whether the expensive job is done, due or still to come
  5. What will it cost to run? Road tax band, insurance group and real-world fuel economy — over three years these can differ by more than the price gap
  6. What evidence comes with it? Service invoices, cambelt receipts, number of keys, the V5C in the seller's name
  7. What's due soon? Tyres near the limit, brakes flagged at the last MOT, a service overdue — all real money in your first year

Turn It Into a First-Year Cost

The cheapest car to buy is often not the cheapest car to own. For each car, add up: asking price + repairs due + a year of tax, insurance and fuel. A car £800 more expensive with new tyres, fresh brakes and a recent cambelt can be the better buy by the end of the year. Our guide to hidden costs of buying a used car has the full list.

Comparing two to four cars?

Put the registrations side by side — MOT records, known faults, running costs and a verdict on which is the smarter buy.

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Weigh What Matters, Not What's Visible

  • Mechanical condition and history deserve the most weight — they're the hardest and most expensive things to fix
  • Running costs come next, because you pay them every month
  • Specification and comfort matter for the next few years of your life — just don't let them outvote a bad MOT record
  • Cosmetics last: a scuffed bumper is a cheap fix; a neglected gearbox isn't

When It's Still a Tie

Pick the car with the better paperwork. Two otherwise similar cars are rarely equal once you know how each was looked after — and documented care is also what the next buyer will pay for when you sell. If you're still torn, view both again on the same day, back to back: differences you missed a week apart become obvious.